I left the main road behind today and have been riding through rural India. It started out nice and smooth but before long the surface turned into a broken mess; islands of crumbling pavement jutting up like ragged little continents out of an ocean of dry, red dirt.
There's not as much traffic, but what there is, is total madness. Tractors hauling overloaded wagons of god-knows-what, speeding busses and trucks and of course the ever-present Tick Ticks all slaloming though the ruts trying to find the sweet spot whether it's on their side of the road or not.
So there's that.
There's more jungle up here, too. The farmer's fields are cut out of the growth and up close to the roads. They have these big motorized pumps that draw huge columns of clear water up out of the earth. As I ride past the geysers, I'm tempted to stop, clamber down into the field, and stand for a while in the cool....
But no, I've got miles to cover and besides I stop too much already. I turned in a respectable 75 kilometers today which puts me a little under 100 clicks from the border. According to my map, there aren't any sizable towns before I get to Nepal. I sure hope I can find a hotel.